Monday, August 20, 2012

Different things about South Africa, or things about south africa that used to make me pause (part 1)

- When I'm walking or anywhere in the village, I have to greet everyone. Whether I know them or not. It's a pretty defined script "Hello, Hello, how are you, I am fine and you, I am fine" or "lochani, yebo, ninjani, si kona, ninjani si kona",. but skip it and you will be incredibly rude. Greetings also go by age. Younger people greet older first. However since I am the Kuwa (ndebele word for white person), It all goes weird and sometimes I greet younger people (usually because they are too freaked to greet me) and am greeted by older people (because I either forget or am up in the clouds). This doesn't happen outside of my village, but I do greet some people in my shopping town and occasionally accidentally in Pretoria. Also, before you ask a question, like "where is the time?" "where is the bathroom?" or buy something, actually before you have any interaction with people, you must do this.

-The next question after the greeting is usually "uyaphi?" or "where are you going?" This only happens when I'm walking. But yes, everyone wants to know where I'm going. Anywhere. Always. This has to do with pre phone days, so if you were going somewhere, someone knew where you were. Mostly I reply "ekhaya (home)" "eskolweni (school)" "hbc home" "kwagga (shopping town)" "pretoria"  or "emphuleni (river)"

-Khumbis/taxi. Big white 16 to 22 passenger miniwans that will take you everywhere in South Africa. Even my tiny village. When going from the village to kwagga, the taxi just drives around in a circle and picks people up. I usually have to wait anywhere from .5 seconds to ten minutes to get picked up. The annoying part is that when leaving the shopping town or going anywhere else, you usually have to wait until the taxi fills up. This can take anywhere from .5 seconds to....my current record is 4 hours. Many friends of mine have beaten that. Its incredibly annoying, especially when I just miss a full taxi and have to wait forever for the next one to fill up. I always come prepared with a book and if I know its going to take a long time, I usually get out and get a soda or some food or make a phone call..

-Soundtrack. In America, usually, except for a party or something, people play their music with headphones. Music, even in restaurants or stores is usually ambient. Not  in South Africa. In South Africa, everyone broadcasts their own personal soundtrack on their cellphones. Incredibly loudly. Or in their homes. At club level. Or on the khumbis. So I am inundated with loud house/ndebele christian music/70's power ballads (this country loves lionel richie. And Peter Gabriel. And Dolly Parton. as well as many others) at all times. Its...well...annoying is definitely the right word. But I can sometimes use this to my advantage. When I'm walking to different places, you can bet I'm blasting sublime/ratatat/bon iver... a lot of other fun pump up music as my own personal soundtrack. And it is kind of awesome.

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